miércoles, 29 de enero de 2014

Norway: Stetind South Pillar solo project (720p)












This is a video of my attempt to solo Stetind, a beautiful mountain in my country Norway. the rock is amazing, pure and solid. And the place is very scenic, with the mountain raising 1392 meters straight from the fjord. The climb is up to 6b, but most is 4th and 5th class terrain. Very nice and clean climb.

You may think I'm crazy where I'm without rope, but it's actually a safety technique to move fast on easy pitches and not spend more time on the wall than necessary to avoid getting caught in the dark or bad weather midways, which was really good I used on this climb. And when free soloing, you climb well within your margins, so that you know you "can't" fall.

It shows that even though weather forecast looks good, it's important to always be prepared for the worst. I knew there was an escape ledge 2 pithces up, and went for that instead of 15-30 rapells into the clouds, depending if I find the right route down in low visibility.

The first quote is from Peter Wessel Zapffe before his ascent up the normal route of Stetind in 1937. It translates "I lay here feeling that I hate this cursed mountain, as it has power over my mind".

Sorry for any bad editing, not easy with a GoPro-camera. Best to turn on HD

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